XENOPHOBE PINOUTS (Midway, 1987) Xenophobe features three boards: CPU, Sounds Good, and a

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XENOPHOBE PINOUTS (Midway, 1987) -------------------------------- Xenophobe features three boards: CPU, Sounds Good, and a Dual Power Amp. These boards use male MTA (Mass-Termination Assembly) connectors in both the .156" (large) and .100" (small) sizes. You'll need several in both sizes. Power requirements are simple: +5V and +12V are all you need. For testing purposes, you can run the 68000 CPU board without the SOUNDS GOOD daughterboard. Yes, this means that you can quickly power up the game using only +5V, GND, and the video signals. If you hold the TEST pin (J2, pin 8) to GND, you can then ground the SERVICE pin (J2, pin 7) to cycle through the self-test screens. The practical upshot of all this is that having an incomplete board set isn't a show-stopper. You can play the game quite nicely (albeit silently) without the sound board, with no ill effects. 68000 CPU BOARD --------------- J1 - Power Input (12 pins, .156") - The CPU board only requires +5V and GND, but if you want to draw +12V from the auxillary power connector, it's probably a good idea to connect it here anyways... 1 - GND 2 - GND 3 - +5V 4 - +5V 5 - Key 6 - Reset Out (unused) 7 - GND 8 - +12V (unused - see note on J6) 9 - +5V 10 - +5V 11 - GND 12 - GND J2 - Inputs IP00 through IP17 (19 pins, .100") - P1 controls, sound status, coin and utility switches 1 - P1 coin 2 - P2 coin 3 - P3 coin 4 - N/C 5 - STAT0 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 6) 6 - Tilt 7 - Service 8 - Test 9 - GND 10 - P1 Up 11 - P1 Down 12 - P1 Left 13 - P1 Right 14 - Key 15 - P1 Trigger 16 - P1 Right Button 17 - P1 Left Button 18 - N/C 19 - GND J3 - Inputs IP20-IP27, Outputs OP60-OP67, Coin Meter (23 pins, .100") - P2 controls, sound selection, coin meter 1 - P2 Up 2 - P2 Down 3 - P2 Left 4 - P2 Right 5 - P2 Trigger 6 - P2 Right Button 7 - P2 Left Button 8 - N/C 9 - GND 10 - Sound 0 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 4) 11 - Sound 1 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 3) 12 - Sound 2 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 9) 13 - Sound 3 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 8) 14 - Strobe/SIRQ (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 2) 15 - Sound Reset (to SOUNDS GOOD, J2, pin 9) 16 - N/C 17 - N/C 18 - GND 19 - Key 20 - Meter Return (to GND on power supply) 21 - Coin Meter 22 - GND 23 - GND J4 - Inputs IP40-IP47, Outputs OP51-OP57 (16 pin, .100") - P3 controls 1 - P3 Up 2 - P3 Down 3 - P3 Left 4 - P3 Right 5 - P3 Trigger 6 - P3 Right Button 7 - P3 Left Button 8 - Key 9 - N/C 10 - GND 11 - N/C 12 - N/C 13 - N/C 14 - N/C 15 - N/C 16 - N/C J5 - Video outputs (9 pins, .100") - Video is separate sync only; there is no composite sync output. 1 - Red 2 - GND 3 - Green 4 - GND 5 - Blue 6 - GND 7 - Key 8 - Horizontal sync 9 - Vertical sync J6 - Aux Power Input (11 pins, .100") - This is not used in the "official" setup, but can be used if necessary. For instance, if your power supply doesn't have enough duplicate outputs to power up all three boards, you can use J6 to supply the other boards with any missing voltages. If you want to use +12V on this connector, you'll have to connect the +12V connector on J1. 1 - GND 2 - GND 3 - +5V 4 - +12V 5 - Key 6 - Reset Out (unused) 7 - Reset Out (unused) 8 - +12V 9 - +5V 10 - GND 11 - GND SOUNDS GOOD BOARD ----------------- J1 - Sound Selection/Status (9 pins, .100") 1 - Spare (unused) 2 - Strobe/SIRQ (from CPU, J3, pin 14) 3 - Sound 1 (from CPU, J3, pin 11) 4 - Sound 0 (from CPU, J3, pin 10) 5 - STAT1 (unused) 6 - STAT0 (from CPU, J2, pin 5) 7 - Key 8 - Sound 3 (from CPU, J3, pin 13) 9 - Sound 2 (from CPU, J3, pin 12) J2 - Power Input (12 pins, .156") - I'm not sure about the difference between the "A", "E", and "L" grounds; I've treated the "A"(udio?) and "L"(ogic?) grounds identically and had acceptable results. Your mileage may vary. 1 - A GND 2 - A GND 3 - +5V 4 - +5V 5 - +12V 6 - +12V 7 - E GND (unused) 8 - Key 9 - Sound Reset (from CPU, J3, pin 15) 10 - Sound Reset 11 - L GND 12 - L GND J3 - Audio Output (12 pins, .100") - Volume pot "A" and "B" signals go to the two "sides" of the pot. The "wiper" goes in the "middle". 1 - Volume pot wiper (to POT) 2 - Left audio out (to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 2) 3 - Right audio out (to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 3) 4 - A GND (to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 3) 5 - A GND 6 - Audio out (unused) 7 - Audio out (unused) 8 - A GND 9 - Key 10 - Volume pot A (to POT) 11 - A GND 12 - Volume pot B (to POT) DUAL POWER AMP -------------- This is a small board which amplifies the signals produced by the "Sounds Good" board and sends them to the speakers. I got mine from an Omega Race board set from 1981. Judging from the age differential, it's clear that these are fairly common boards and that they've been used in many Midway games over the ages. If you can't find one, you can probably build an equivalent amplifier yourself out of spare parts; any basic electronics text should tell you what you need to know to do it yourself. J1 - Audio Input (8 pins, .100") 1 - N/C 2 - Left audio 3 - Left shield (from SOUNDS GOOD, J3, pin 4) 4 - Key 5 - GND 6 - Right audio 7 - Right shield (unused) 8 - +12V J2 - Speaker Output (6 pins, .100") 1 - Right speaker +ve 2 - Right speaker -ve 3 - Key 4 - Left speaker +ve 5 - N/C 6 - Left speaker -ve DUAL POWER AMP WITH MIXER ------------------------- You can also use a "Dual power amp with mixer" as opposed to the regular "Dual power amp" board. This board can handle (and presumably mix) four separate inputs as opposed to two. I've never seen one of these boards, so again, your mileage may vary... J1 - Audio Input (11 pins, .100") 1 - L2 shield (unused) 2 - L2 audio (corresponds to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 2) 3 - L1 audio (unused) 4 - L1 shield (corresponds to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 3) 5 - Key 6 - GND 7 - R2 shield (unused) 8 - R2 audio (corresponds to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 6) 9 - R1 audio (unused) 10 - R1 shield (unused) 11 - +12V J2 - Speaker Output (6 pins, .100") 1 - Right speaker +ve 2 - Right speaker -ve 3 - Key 4 - Left speaker +ve 5 - N/C 6 - Left speaker -ve

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